Hugs all round as Saint Laurent hoodie dress returns in Paris show

Under the twinkling lights of the Eiffel Tower  reinvented the hoodie. Or rather it reinvented Yves Saint Laurent’s hooded dress, also hoodie dress  known as the capuche.

First shown in 1969, it was a gown with such longevity that the designer wheeled it back out I and then   the final couture show before his death in 2008.

The fabric changed each time – from heavy jersey to something lighter and more transparent. But the bones were the same. Alongside  , the capuche remains one of the label’s most famous garments to date.

Its creative director, Anthony Vaccarello, described his version as a “prolongation of fabric over the model’s head” – but to the rest of us, it was a dress with a hood. His came in a heavy silk jersey knit in muted tones of green, bronze and purple. It was unforgiving, and floor length, but even if you didn’t have the nerve (or budget) to wear one, it was a moment of elegance in an otherwise impressive collection that married old YSL codes with the 40-year-old Belgian’s new ones.

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